Score intensity Darker cells mean a higher score for this topic on that metric.
64
70
72
74
88
66
Less More
Score profile Each bar is a 0-100 atlas score for this topic, not a timeline.
Sillage 64
Longevity 70
Versatility 72
Complexity 74
Cultural impact 88
Approachability 66
Trail and hold Notes Notes: Lavender / Bergamot / Rosemary / Dihydromyrcenol Notes / Lavender / Bergamot / Rosemary / Dihydromy Heart: Geranium / Clary sage / Coumarin / Hedione Heart / Geranium / Clary sage / Coumarin / Hedione Base: Oakmoss / Tonka / Vetiver / Musk Base / Oakmoss / Tonka / Vetiver / Musk Timeline Milestones in order. This is history, not a weekly activity grid.
1882 Fougère Royale 1889 Jicky 1902+ English ferns 1964 Brut 1978 Azzaro Pour Homme 1982 Drakkar Noir 1988 Cool Water 1990s Paco Rabanne / others IFRA years Evernyl ferns 2010s Niche ferns 1882 Fougère Royale 1889 Jicky 1902+ English ferns 1964 Brut 1978 Azzaro Pour Homme 1982 Drakkar Noir 1988 Cool Water 1990s Paco Rabanne / others IFRA years Evernyl ferns 2010s Niche ferns Explore Floral Floral White floral White floral Rose Rose Jasmine Jasmine Iris & powdery Iris & powdery Fruity Fruity Citrus Citrus Aromatic Aromatic Aquatic Aquatic Green Green Tea Tea Woody Woody Sandalwood Sandalwood Oud & incense Oud & incense Vetiver Vetiver Chypre Chypre Compare 14 min read
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Lavender, coumarin, oakmoss — the 1882 fern that still is the skeleton of most men's designer bottles.
Key takeaways
Fougère is the fern of 1882 that still holds up most men's designer bottles. Lavender, coumarin, oakmoss — the 1882 fern that still is the skeleton of most men's designer bottles. Fougère sits in the Studio group of this atlas. Constructed signatures — fougère fern, skin musk and aldehyde sparkle.
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Local systems
IFRA / allergens Annex and allergen labelling language on bottles.
Counter grades EDT/EDP/extrait as shop-floor words, not chemistry.
Duty-free / gift Travel retail and gift seasons for this language market. Local examples Gift-season wear notes for English counters. Duty-free EDT/EDP wording beside the pyramid. Local FAQ Is EDT stronger than EDP? Usually not — EDP is typically higher oil; check the bottle.
Do I need allergen lists? Retail labels follow IFRA/region rules; this atlas is educational.
Local terms
Pyramid Top / heart / base teaching layers.
Concentration EDT/EDP/extrait shop grades.
Accord A taught blend, not a legal formula. Local systems
IFRA / allergens Annex and allergen labelling language on bottles.
Counter grades EDT/EDP/extrait as shop-floor words, not chemistry.
Duty-free / gift Travel retail and gift seasons for this language market. Local examples Gift-season wear notes for English counters. Duty-free EDT/EDP wording beside the pyramid. Local FAQ Is EDT stronger than EDP? Usually not — EDP is typically higher oil; check the bottle.
Do I need allergen lists? Retail labels follow IFRA/region rules; this atlas is educational.
Local terms
Sillage
Longevity
Accord
IFRA Sources IFRA standards (industry) Osmothèque / historic formulae teaching House launch years (dated) Wikimedia Commons (CC/PD) Local institutions
IFRA standards Industry practice limits for many materials — still check your market’s rules.
Retail / duty-free calendars Launch seasons and gift peaks differ by region.
On-pack allergen labeling Legal disclosures live on the product you purchase. Myths vs facts Fragrance is strictly gendered → Marketing genders bottles; structures cross those lines constantly. Higher price guarantees longer wear → Concentration, materials, and skin/climate matter more than MSRP. Atlas notes equal full INCI → Notes are olfactory teaching language, not a complete ingredient disclosure. Deeper FAQ Is this medical or allergy advice? No. Follow clinicians and on-pack allergen labeling.
Do scores rank “best” perfumes? No. They are editorial browsing meters across families and craft dimensions.
Why include culture and market? Wear norms and retail calendars shape what people actually buy and gift.
Can I trust pyramid diagrams alone? Pyramids are teaching sketches; skin chemistry and dosage change the real wear.
Checklist
1 Name occasion and climate before picking a family.
2 Read wear + market, not only icons.
3 Check on-pack allergens for the SKU you buy.
4 Test on skin; paper strips lie about dry-down. Important caveat Not dermatology or allergy diagnosis. Patch-test guidance belongs with clinicians and product labels.
Editor depth Editorial meters compare browsing dimensions (history, craft presence, market noise) — not lab GC-MS rankings. On VS pages, weigh opening brightness against dry-down and wear context, not only top-note drama.
Deeper sources IFRA standards library (industry practice) On-pack labeling rules in your market Commons-licensed bottle / material imagery credits Important caveat Not dermatology or allergy diagnosis. Patch-test guidance belongs with clinicians and product labels.
Who this is for Lavender, coumarin, oakmoss — the 1882 fern that still is the skeleton of most men's designer bottles.
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Key scores Sillage 64 Longevity 70 Versatility 72 Complexity 74 Cultural impact 88 Approachability 66 Floral White floral Rose Jasmine Pin a wear occasion Pick an occasion already in this family’s wear chapter. Last pick stays beside this pick — two uses, no new family.
Teaching notes on skin and season. Not a medical, legal or workplace-scent rule.
Occasion already in wear After shave Office Evening Barber chair
Stored on this device. Change the pick to compare last against this.
Restore last occasion Keep this occasion Forget occasion
Name materials Prefer Grasse, Taif, Kannauj, IFRA and dated house launches over “a famous perfume”.
Perfume terms
Sillage Trail in air after the wearer passes — relative here.
Longevity How long a composition reads on skin/fabric — context dependent.
Accord A built chord of notes that reads as one idea.
IFRA Industry safety standards for fragrance materials — not medical advice. How to read a family Open the wheel — See where a family sits among neighbors.Read the pyramid — Top / heart / base are teaching chords, not a formula dump.Check wear — Seasons and occasions are editorial, not rules.Compare next — Related families and VS pages keep traffic looping.Practical tools Compare families
Next tool After notes/wear, open the Scent wheel or Compare.
Use this page Open the wheel — See where a family sits among neighbors. Read the pyramid — Top / heart / base are teaching chords, not a formula dump. Check wear — Seasons and occasions are editorial, not rules.
Guiclan · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Fougère is the fern of 1882 that still holds up most men's designer bottles.
Lavender, coumarin, oakmoss — the 1882 fern that still is the skeleton of most men's designer bottles.
Fougère sits in the Studio group of this atlas. Constructed signatures — fougère fern, skin musk and aldehyde sparkle.
The 1882 fern that still holds the men’s hall
Lavender, coumarin and oakmoss are Houbigant’s 1882 skeleton. Most designer masculines are still a fougère in disguise — Sauvage included, after a fashion.
IFRA oakmoss limits rewrote the base. The idea of the fern survived. Between Grasse feedstock, IFRA limits and the split of niche counters versus designer malls, this family is read as a global grammar rather than a single bottle.
Barbershop day, all year. This is another family where IFRA is the plot, not a footnote.
Family Fern fougère
Key notes Lavender, coumarin
Season All year
Landmark Houbigant 1882
Wear Barbershop day
Watch IFRA oakmoss
The scent pyramid
Top
Lavender · Bergamot · Rosemary · Dihydromyrcenol
Heart
Geranium · Clary sage · Coumarin · Hedione
Base
Oakmoss · Tonka · Vetiver · Musk
Pin a wear occasion Pick an occasion already in this family’s wear chapter. Last pick stays beside this pick — two uses, no new family.
Teaching notes on skin and season. Not a medical, legal or workplace-scent rule.
Occasion already in wear After shave Office Evening Barber chair
Stored on this device. Change the pick to compare last against this.
Restore last occasion Keep this occasion Forget occasion
Seven chapters on this family Frequently asked questions What is Fougère? Lavender, coumarin, oakmoss — the 1882 fern that still skeletons most men’s designer bottles. IFRA rewrote the moss.
EDP vs EDT — what changes? Concentration is oil in alcohol, not a quality score. EDT (about 5–15%) shows more top; EDP (about 15–20%) shows more heart and base. Houses vary; this is not a lab assay.
How should I wear Fougère? One or two sprays on skin or cloth — sternum or hair, not a cloud in a lift. Let it turn an hour before you add more.
Which season fits? All year, barbershop day. Heat can turn lavender medicinal and moss loud.
Does skin chemistry change it? Yes. Warm, moist skin amplifies sweet and spice; dry or cool skin can turn the same juice woody, soapy or short. Test on your skin, not only a blotter.
What about IFRA and oakmoss? Oakmoss is IFRA-limited. Classic chypre and fougère bases were rewritten; modern “moss” is often a reconstruction. Ask a clinician about reactions — this is not medical advice.
Any ethics or materials I should know? Read the materials chapter for the actual load. Niche and designer often share a family and disagree on dose.
Is this medical or allergy advice? No. This atlas is cultural and editorial. Fragrance can irritate; oakmoss, eugenol, citrus oils and musks are common triggers. See a clinician for reactions. Nothing here is a diagnosis, treatment or safety sheet.
