Milestones in order. This is history, not a weekly activity grid.
- Fougère Royale
- Jicky
- English ferns
- Brut
- Azzaro Pour Homme
- Drakkar Noir
- Cool Water
- Paco Rabanne / others
- Evernyl ferns
- Niche ferns
Darker cells mean a higher score for this topic on that metric.
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Quick answers
What is Fougère?
Lavender, coumarin, oakmoss — the 1882 fern that still skeletons most men’s designer bottles. IFRA rewrote the moss.
EDP vs EDT — what changes?
Concentration is oil in alcohol, not a quality score. EDT (about 5–15%) shows more top; EDP (about 15–20%) shows more heart and base. Houses vary; this is not a lab assay.
How should I wear Fougère?
One or two sprays on skin or cloth — sternum or hair, not a cloud in a lift. Let it turn an hour before you add more.
Which season fits?
All year, barbershop day. Heat can turn lavender medicinal and moss loud.
Does skin chemistry change it?
Yes. Warm, moist skin amplifies sweet and spice; dry or cool skin can turn the same juice woody, soapy or short. Test on your skin, not only a blotter.
What about IFRA and oakmoss?
Oakmoss is IFRA-limited. Classic chypre and fougère bases were rewritten; modern “moss” is often a reconstruction. Ask a clinician about reactions — this is not medical advice.
Fougère did not arrive as one bottle. The timeline below keeps Grasse, Guerlain, Chanel, Nahéma and IFRA as proper names, not metaphors.
Read the years as a map of trade and reformulation, not as a ranking of beauty.
Timeline
- Fougère Royale
Paul Parquet for Houbigant: coumarin + lavender + moss; a new structure.
- Jicky
Guerlain borrows the hinge toward oriental.
- English ferns
Toilet-water fougères in London barbers.
- Brut
Faberge: democratic fern.
- Azzaro Pour Homme
Anise-lavender fougère.
- Drakkar Noir
Dihydromyrcenol fougère; gym-to-office.
- Cool Water
Aquatic fougère; Calone on Parquet’s bones.
- Paco Rabanne / others
The aisle is almost all fern hybrids.
- Evernyl ferns
Evernyl ferns; Royale restages argue authenticity.
- Niche ferns
Malle, Lutens, and Houbigant revivals of 1882 math.
The eras
- Invention and barber — Royale to Brut’s eve.
- Drugstore fern — Brut and cousins.
- Power / water fern — Drakkar then Cool Water.
- Default masculine — Every brief a fougère hybrid.
- Heritage vs sport — 1882 restages versus DHM-Calone leftovers.
Milestones
- Fougère Royale, 1882 — A family born from a synthetic and a lie about ferns.
- Drakkar Noir, 1982 — Volume fougère of the 1980s.
- Cool Water, 1988 — The aquatic graft that still defines “fresh masculine.”
Fougère keeps moving; the other six chapters say what one date cannot.
Origins & milestonesNotes & accordsCraft & methodCulture & meaningIcons & legendsHow to wearMarket & bottles