Bergamot, oakmoss and labdanum — the 1917 idea IFRA rewrote. The architecture survived the molecule.
EDP vs EDT — what changes?
Concentration is oil in alcohol, not a quality score. EDT (about 5–15%) shows more top; EDP (about 15–20%) shows more heart and base. Houses vary; this is not a lab assay.
How should I wear Chypre?
One or two sprays on skin or cloth — sternum or hair, not a cloud in a lift. Let it turn an hour before you add more.
Which season fits?
Autumn, tailored day. Summer heat can turn moss bitter and loud.
Does skin chemistry change it?
Yes. Warm, moist skin amplifies sweet and spice; dry or cool skin can turn the same juice woody, soapy or short. Test on your skin, not only a blotter.
What about IFRA and oakmoss?
Oakmoss is IFRA-limited. Classic chypre and fougère bases were rewritten; modern “moss” is often a reconstruction. Ask a clinician about reactions — this is not medical advice.
Any ethics or materials I should know?
Read the materials chapter for the actual load. Niche and designer often share a family and disagree on dose.
Is this medical or allergy advice?
No. This atlas is cultural and editorial. Fragrance can irritate; oakmoss, eugenol, citrus oils and musks are common triggers. See a clinician for reactions. Nothing here is a diagnosis, treatment or safety sheet.