Darker cells mean a higher score for this topic on that metric.
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Quick answers
What is Chypre?
Bergamot, oakmoss and labdanum — the 1917 idea IFRA rewrote. The architecture survived the molecule.
EDP vs EDT — what changes?
Concentration is oil in alcohol, not a quality score. EDT (about 5–15%) shows more top; EDP (about 15–20%) shows more heart and base. Houses vary; this is not a lab assay.
How should I wear Chypre?
One or two sprays on skin or cloth — sternum or hair, not a cloud in a lift. Let it turn an hour before you add more.
Which season fits?
Autumn, tailored day. Summer heat can turn moss bitter and loud.
Does skin chemistry change it?
Yes. Warm, moist skin amplifies sweet and spice; dry or cool skin can turn the same juice woody, soapy or short. Test on your skin, not only a blotter.
What about IFRA and oakmoss?
Oakmoss is IFRA-limited. Classic chypre and fougère bases were rewritten; modern “moss” is often a reconstruction. Ask a clinician about reactions — this is not medical advice.
The market for Chypre runs from body mist to otto extrait.
Chanel, Guerlain and niche counters share a family and disagree on dose.
Houses
- Coty — The name.
- Guerlain — Mitsouko.
- Dior — Miss Dior.
- Clinique — Aromatics Elixir.
- Grès — Cabochard.
- Rochas — Femme.
Price bands
- Designer chypre restage — Evernyl, quieter.
- Heritage Guerlain / Dior — The teaching bottles.
- Power chypre — Aromatics-weight.
- Vintage pre-IFRA — Collector market, variable juice.
Trends
- Moss substitutes — The central R&D story.
- Niche 1917 cosplay — Named bergamot-labdanum-moss.
- Floral-chypre revival — Miss Dior flankers, uneven.
- Patch-moss dirt — Coty’s modernism reused in niche.
Stats
- 1917 naming — A late but decisive baptism.
- Oakmoss caps — Changed more formulas than any other IFRA file in this atlas.
- Complexity — Among the highest — a structure, not a note.
- Approachability — Low; bitterness is the point.
Price is not quality; it is harvest, IFRA and a story about Chypre.
Origins & milestonesNotes & accordsCraft & methodCulture & meaningIcons & legendsHow to wearMarket & bottles