Eight bottles and noses that still define Chypre.
Darker cells mean a higher score for this topic on that metric.
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Bergamot, oakmoss and labdanum — the 1917 idea IFRA rewrote. The architecture survived the molecule.
Concentration is oil in alcohol, not a quality score. EDT (about 5–15%) shows more top; EDP (about 15–20%) shows more heart and base. Houses vary; this is not a lab assay.
One or two sprays on skin or cloth — sternum or hair, not a cloud in a lift. Let it turn an hour before you add more.
Autumn, tailored day. Summer heat can turn moss bitter and loud.
Yes. Warm, moist skin amplifies sweet and spice; dry or cool skin can turn the same juice woody, soapy or short. Test on your skin, not only a blotter.
Oakmoss is IFRA-limited. Classic chypre and fougère bases were rewritten; modern “moss” is often a reconstruction. Ask a clinician about reactions — this is not medical advice.
Icons for Chypre are bottles and people — Nahéma, Chanel, Guerlain stay as names.
Scores below are editorial marks inside this atlas, not lab assays.
1917– · France
The named chord: bergamot, labdanum, oakmoss.
Chypre de Coty (1917–, France) is still the story a counter tells when this family needs a name.
Read Chypre de Coty as dose and geometry, not a mood board — that is how Chypre is argued.
1919– · France
Peach-oakmoss; the child’s masterpiece.
Mitsouko (1919–, France) is still the story a counter tells when this family needs a name.
Read Mitsouko as dose and geometry, not a mood board — that is how Chypre is argued.
1947– · France
Floral chypre for Dior’s New Look (Vacher / Carles).
Miss Dior (1947–, France) is still the story a counter tells when this family needs a name.
Read Miss Dior as dose and geometry, not a mood board — that is how Chypre is argued.
1971– · United States
Bernard Chant’s camomile-moss power chypre.
Aromatics Elixir (1971–, United States) is still the story a counter tells when this family needs a name.
Read Aromatics Elixir as dose and geometry, not a mood board — that is how Chypre is argued.
1959– · France
Cellier’s leathery chypre for Grès.
Cabochard (1959–, France) is still the story a counter tells when this family needs a name.
Read Cabochard as dose and geometry, not a mood board — that is how Chypre is argued.
1944– · France
Roudnitska’s ripe chypre.
Femme (1944–, France) is still the story a counter tells when this family needs a name.
Read Femme as dose and geometry, not a mood board — that is how Chypre is argued.
1874–1934 · France
Industrial perfume and the 1917 name.
François Coty (1874–1934, France) is still the story a counter tells when this family needs a name.
Read François Coty as dose and geometry, not a mood board — that is how Chypre is argued.
1874–1963 · France
Mitsouko’s author; chypre as tragedy and peach.
Jacques Guerlain (1874–1963, France) is still the story a counter tells when this family needs a name.
Read Jacques Guerlain as dose and geometry, not a mood board — that is how Chypre is argued.
An icon is a brief that other Chypre formulas still answer.
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