Shank at 90 degrees: Braised in soy · 484

Leg muscle, and essentially a block of collagen. Under pressure or in a sous vide bath it converts completely into gelatin, at which point a spoon will cut it. Look for tendon that is translucent rather than chalky, and meat that springs back when pressed. Sold more for collagen than grade; marrow bones are the prize.

Colour, sinew, where the fat sits, and thickness are what you check before you pay. Ask for the thickness that matches “Braised in soy.” Use 90 degrees and 90 when you cook. Salt after you know the job. Do not play with undercooked meat. At the counter, read the use on Shank before the photograph. 90 degrees is the internal heat, “Braised in soy” is the dish, and 90 is the stage of the fire. Marbling alone does not split stew from grill. Held near boiling for long enough, it becomes the body of any bone broth worth the name.

At the counter, read the use on Shank before the photograph. 90 degrees is the internal heat, “Braised in soy” is the dish, and 90 is the stage of the fire. Marbling alone does not split stew from grill. Held near boiling for long enough, it becomes the body of any bone broth worth the name.