Picnic shoulder at 66 degrees: Smoked picnic ham · 385

The lower half of the foreleg, below the shoulder proper. Leaner and more sinewy than the butt above it, with a thick skin that crisps into crackling if you let it dry out first. It is the traditional cut for pressed and boiled pork dishes across Asia and Europe alike. Skin should be smooth and dry to the touch. A damp, sticky rind will steam rather than crisp.

Picnic is a working cut — colour and skin quality matter more than a marbling score. Colour, sinew, where the fat sits, and thickness are what you check before you pay. Ask for the thickness that matches “Smoked picnic ham.” Use 66 degrees and 66 when you cook. Salt after you know the job. Do not play with undercooked meat.

Cook Picnic shoulder to 66 degrees and serve it as “Smoked picnic ham.” The other figure to watch is 66. Do not time a hard-working muscle like a thin steak. Colour before heat is not doneness. Dry the skin uncovered in the fridge overnight if you want crackling; moisture is the only thing that stops it blistering.