Flank at 70 degrees: Bulgogi

Whole-muscle flank is usually ungraded at retail; grain direction matters more than the stamp. Abdominal muscle with a coarse but remarkably consistent grain. That consistency is the whole trick: slice it thinly against the grain and a tough cut becomes dramatically tender. Sear the outside hard, then always cut at a right angle to the grain. Cutting with the grain ruins it.

Colour, sinew, where the fat sits, and thickness are what you check before you pay. Ask for the thickness that matches “Bulgogi.” Use 70 degrees and 70 when you cook. Salt after you know the job. Do not play with undercooked meat. At the counter, read the use on Flank before the photograph. 70 degrees is the internal heat, “Bulgogi” is the dish, and 70 is the stage of the fire. Marbling alone does not split stew from grill. The grain should run clearly in one direction, and the silverskin should already be trimmed away.

At the counter, read the use on Flank before the photograph. 70 degrees is the internal heat, “Bulgogi” is the dish, and 70 is the stage of the fire. Marbling alone does not split stew from grill. The grain should run clearly in one direction, and the silverskin should already be trimmed away.