Jasmine did not arrive as one bottle. The timeline below keeps Grasse, Guerlain, Chanel, Nahéma and IFRA as proper names, not metaphors.
Read the years as a map of trade and reformulation, not as a ranking of beauty.
Timeline
- Sambac east
Jasminum sambac moves through South and Southeast Asia as hair and rite flower.
- Grasse jasmine
J. grandiflorum naturalized in Provence as a perfume crop.
- No. 5 jasmine
Ernest Beaux and Chanel lock Grasse jasmine into an aldehydic monument.
- Joy
Patou’s jasmine load beside rose — the two-flower canon.
- Hedione
Firmenich’s methyl dihydrojasmonate: air, tea, and modern jasmine without full indole.
- Samsara
Guerlain’s sandal-jasmine; late grand-floral oriental.
- A La Nuit
Lutens / Sheldrake: sambac as night, banana and indole.
- Jasmin Rouge
Tom Ford’s spicy red jasmine as boutique night floral.
- Chanel fields
Publicized Grasse partnerships restage jasmine as terroir branding.
- Hedione share
Indole and some naturals managed; hedione takes more of the air.
The eras
- Crop and attar — Provence fields and Kannauj stills, not yet a “note pyramid” story.
- Absolute luxury — No. 5 and Joy make jasmine a measurable extravagance.
- Hedione air — The molecule lets jasmine float in eaux and masculines (Eau Sauvage lineage).
- Night niche — Samsara, A La Nuit, Ford — jasmine as dusk and sandal.
- Terroir plus tea — Named Grasse fields and transparent hedione teas share the shelf.
Milestones
- Grasse grandiflorum — The French jasmine that luxury houses still name in copy and contracts.
- Hedione, 1962 — Changed every “fresh jasmine” after Eau Sauvage’s era.
- A La Nuit, 2000 — Sambac as a night portrait, not a French absolute clone.
Jasmine keeps moving; the other six chapters say what one date cannot.
Origins & milestonesNotes & accordsCraft & methodCulture & meaningIcons & legendsHow to wearMarket & bottles