Short plate at 95 degrees: Skirt tacos · 480

The muscle between the ribs, built in thin alternating layers of fat and lean. On a grill it throws off more aroma than any other cut, because the fat drips into the fire and comes back up as smoke. Look for a cross-section where fat and lean stack in clear layers rather than one thick fat seam.

Fatty enough that it wants fierce heat and a short time. The flame doing the seasoning is the point of this cut. Colour, sinew, where the fat sits, and thickness are what you check before you pay. Ask for the thickness that matches “Skirt tacos.” Use 95 degrees and 95 when you cook. Salt after you know the job. Do not play with undercooked meat.

At the counter, read the use on Short plate before the photograph. 95 degrees is the internal heat, “Skirt tacos” is the dish, and 95 is the stage of the fire. Marbling alone does not split stew from grill. Outside skirt and short rib plate are different muscles — confirm before paying ribeye prices.