Chuck at 80 degrees: Bulgogi · 458

Often sold as chuck roll; USDA grade follows the carcass, not this primal alone. A bundle of working muscles running from the shoulder into the neck. The grain is coarse and it carries a lot of connective tissue, but simmer it long enough and that tissue melts into gelatin and gives you the deepest broth on the animal. It is also the standard cut for thin-sliced barbecue.

Too much connective tissue to serve pink — this cut rewards time, not precision. Sliced thin it grills; cubed it stews. Colour, sinew, where the fat sits, and thickness are what you check before you pay. Ask for the thickness that matches “Bulgogi.” Use 80 degrees and 80 when you cook. Salt after you know the job. Do not play with undercooked meat.

At the counter, read the use on Chuck before the photograph. 80 degrees is the internal heat, “Bulgogi” is the dish, and 80 is the stage of the fire. Marbling alone does not split stew from grill. Look for even red muscle with minimal white sheets of membrane running through it. Heavily seamed pieces are better bought for stew.