Belly at 95 degrees: Samgyeopsal

Count the layers: three or more clean bands of fat and lean is what the Korean name literally describes. Braise or steam first to soften the fat, then finish over fierce heat. Doing only the second step leaves the fat chewy. Count clean fat–lean layers; grading stamps are rare — geometry and smell decide quality.

Colour, sinew, where the fat sits, and thickness are what you check before you pay. Ask for the thickness that matches “Samgyeopsal.” Use 95 degrees and 95 when you cook. Salt after you know the job. Do not play with undercooked meat. Cook Belly to 95 degrees and serve it as “Samgyeopsal.” The other figure to watch is 95. Do not time a hard-working muscle like a thin steak. Colour before heat is not doneness. Alternating strata of fat and lean with no connective tissue to fight — the most straightforwardly delicious geometry on any animal. Cured and smoked it is bacon, sliced thick and grilled it is samgyeopsal, braised whole

Cook Belly to 95 degrees and serve it as “Samgyeopsal.” The other figure to watch is 95. Do not time a hard-working muscle like a thin steak. Colour before heat is not doneness. Alternating strata of fat and lean with no connective tissue to fight — the most straightforwardly delicious geometry on any animal. Cured and smoked it is bacon, sliced thick and grilled it is samgyeopsal, braised whole