Belly at 88 degrees: Dongpo pork

Alternating strata of fat and lean with no connective tissue to fight — the most straightforwardly delicious geometry on any animal. Cured and smoked it is bacon, sliced thick and grilled it is samgyeopsal, braised whole it is dongpo pork. Three cuisines, one slab. Count the layers: three or more clean bands of fat and lean is what the Korean name literally describes.

Braise or steam first to soften the fat, then finish over fierce heat. Doing only the second step leaves the fat chewy. Colour, sinew, where the fat sits, and thickness are what you check before you pay. Ask for the thickness that matches “Dongpo pork.” Use 88 degrees and 88 when you cook. Salt after you know the job. Do not play with undercooked meat.

At the counter, read the use on Belly before the photograph. 88 degrees is the internal heat, “Dongpo pork” is the dish, and 88 is the stage of the fire. Marbling alone does not split stew from grill. Count clean fat–lean layers; grading stamps are rare — geometry and smell decide quality.