Rumen at 76 degrees: Grill yang

Honeycomb thickness sets the price more than a grade. The first of a cow’s four stomachs, lined with towel-like papillae. The thickest section, sold separately as honeycomb tripe or yanggitmeori, is scarce enough to command a different price. Almost no fat — the whole point is the snap.

Start scored-side down. Overcook and it turns rubbery — flip as soon as the edges begin to curl. Colour, sinew, where the fat sits, and thickness are what you check before you pay. Ask for the thickness that matches “Grill yang.” Use 76 degrees and 76 when you cook. Salt after you know the job. Do not play with undercooked meat.

At the counter, read the use on Rumen before the photograph. 76 degrees is the internal heat, “Grill yang” is the dish, and 76 is the stage of the fire. Marbling alone does not split stew from grill. Raised, thick papillae mark the premium piece. Thin, flabby sheets are ordinary rumen.