Watchmaker in 1801: Breguet patents the tourbillon

The opposite problem: the industry is short of watchmakers. Mechanical watches came back as luxury goods after the quartz crisis, Swiss exports hit a record CHF 26.7 billion in 2023, and the booming pre-owned market needs servicing too. Brands including Rolex and the Richemont group fund watchmaking schools in several countries precisely because retirements outpace the supply of trained graduates.

It depends heavily on country and level. US watch and clock repairers earned a median of roughly $55,000 in 2023 (BLS); experienced watchmakers at Swiss manufactures typically sit in the CHF 75,000–100,000 band. Complications specialists and successful independents earn well above that — a single watch from an elite independent maker can sell for six figures — while entry-level service work pays modestly everywhere.

Why does a watch service cost so much? A full service means completely disassembling the movement — often more than a hundred parts — cleaning everything, replacing worn components, re-oiling with several different lubricants in doses smaller than a pinhead, then reassembling, regulating in multiple positions and testing for days. That is several hours of skilled bench time even for a simple watch, and far more for chronographs or vintage pieces with no spare parts available.