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The table

Filipino cuisine — 1898, American sweet

Before Filipino cuisine reaches the table, the method to trust is 1898: “American sweet,” measured by 1946. Season it before it is served. A star rating is not a measure. Rice is mandatory. Kamayan (hands) returns at feasts. Saw saw (dipping) sauces are personal.

Vinegar-garlic stew method, many meats. A fiesta is lechon and a table that does not run out. A Tuesday is rice, a sour soup and leftover adobo that tastes better on day two. The home pantry around Adobo and the labour behind Sinigang rarely fit a takeaway box. Are restaurant versions "authentic"?

Restaurant Filipino cuisine is one register. Home pots and market stalls are others. Authenticity is a marketing word; technique is not. Lutuing Filipino is the local name used in this atlas beside Filipino cuisine. Filipino cuisine tastes first of sour and garlic: adobo, sinigang, kinilaw. Chili exists (Bicol, Mindanao) but the national bass is suka and tamarind, not nam prik.

Street food is barbecue sticks, fishballs and halo-halo. Jollibee is a genuine popular taste, not a joke about colonialism — though colonialism is in the gravy. Filipino cuisine is organised by bagoong / suka and rice. Pampanga claims a culinary capital. Ilocos salts and bagoong; Bicol cooks chili-coconut; the Visayas roast lechon that Manila argues about; Mindanao holds Muslim-Filipino and lumad tables.

Filipino cuisine needs 1898, “American sweet,” and 1946. Without them the plate is an advertisement.1898

Figures to keep

Year of the method
1898
Measure
1946
Dish
Filipino cuisine
Cooking line
American sweet

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