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The order of a scent

Citrus, 1916: Acqua di Parma Colonia

Smell Citrus on paper before it touches skin. The year to write is 1916, the line is “Acqua di Parma Colonia,” and the figure is 4711. Do not lay two scents on the same wrist and call it a comparison. The Mülhens number-address cologne; still a German civic smell.

Bergamot, lemon, yuzu peel — the bright opening of cologne, IFRA-limited oils and a glass of cold sunshine. Citrus is the first light of cologne — peel, sparkle and a glass of cold sunshine that IFRA still watches. Citrus sits in the Breeze group of this atlas. Air and leaf — citrus, herbs, marine, green stems and tea steam.

Bergamot, lemon, yuzu peel — the bright opening of cologne, watched by IFRA for phototoxicity. Concentration is oil in alcohol, not a quality score. EDT (about 5–15%) shows more top; EDP (about 15–20%) shows more heart and base. Houses vary; this is not a lab assay. One or two sprays on skin or cloth — sternum or hair, not a cloud in a lift. Let it turn an hour before you add more.

Hot weather, morning. The family is happier as cologne and EDT than as a heavy EDP. Yes. Warm, moist skin amplifies sweet and spice; dry or cool skin can turn the same juice woody, soapy or short. Test on your skin, not only a blotter. Some citrus oils are phototoxic. IFRA limits leave-on doses. Do not treat cologne as sunscreen, and do not use this page as a safety sheet.

Speak of Citrus as 1916, “Acqua di Parma Colonia,” and 4711. A scent is an order, not a ranking.1916

Figures to keep

Year of the note
1916
Figure kept
4711
Scent
Citrus
Trial line
Acqua di Parma Colonia

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