Spanish cuisine — 1990s, Basque nueva cocina

Spanish cuisine sits at spice 38 in this atlas. Paella and Tortilla española show the range better than a single heat number. Paella plus one regional plate — not only the export icon. Tapas are a clock more than a dish — standing, late, shared. Jamón and anchovy are the umami, not a chili paste.

The home pantry around Sofrito and the labour behind Tortilla española rarely fit a takeaway box. Are restaurant versions "authentic"? Restaurant Spanish cuisine is one register. Home pots and market stalls are others. Authenticity is a marketing word; technique is not. Cocina española is the local name used in this atlas beside Spanish cuisine.

Spanish cuisine is olive oil and sofrito: onion, garlic, tomato, pimentón. Valencia guards paella; the Basque Country guards pintxos and a technical restaurant culture; Andalusia fries fish and pours sherry. Street Spain is a bar counter, not a night market. Churros and a market toast are the morning; the serious meal is still after 9 p.m.